Need Furniture Restoration Tips?

The guidelines for furniture maintenance are pretty simple. If the furniture is used wisely and handled carefully, it will need very little in the way of routine maintenance. But in cleaning and polishing furniture surfaces and hardware, and in re-upholstering, some well-intentioned caretakers introduce damage. In fact, a lot of what furniture conservators do is respond to destructive maintenance practices.

Cleaning Surfaces

For the most part, maintaining furniture simply means keeping it clean, carefully. Wood furniture usually needs to be cleaned only when there is a buildup of wax or dirt. Only unfinished wood, painted wood, or wood with a sturdy finish should be cleaned. The finish on giltwood is often applied with a water-soluble size, or adhesive; it should be carefully dusted, not cleaned, or cleaned only by a professional.

Before cleaning wood or coatings, the first and most important step is to evaluate the surface and make sure that the surface or coating is stable and not apt to be damaged by the contact required in cleaning and polishing. If the surface is unstable, the polishing could knock off loose portions. Damaged surfaces should be referred to a conservator.

After the soundness of the surface has been established, the next step is to find out what the dirt is and what the surface is. If you can’t determine these exactly, find out what removes the dirt without affecting the surface underneath it. Often, dust can be removed with the careful wipe of a damp cloth. Oily dirt or waxy residue can be removed with a mild detergent and water solution or with mineral spirits. However, it is vital to make sure that the cleaning solution does not affect the underlying surface. Even when you determine a cleaning method that works successfully, proceed cautiously.

Loose dust on the surface can be removed with a soft, lint-free cloth, gently rubbed over the surface. Dust is an abrasive and can scratch the surface, so be careful. Uneven areas can be dusted with a clean, natural bristle paint or artist’s brush. Again, do not try to dust a surface that is severely deteriorated. Cloth fibers can catch and tear away pieces of the finish, veneer or loose parts. Even rough edges can splinter. Carving, fretwork, and other delicate work can be dusted with a soft bristle brush, with a vacuum cleaner host held close enough to take in the dust one it is dislodged by the brush. Do not use feather dusters, as they can scratch and pull off loose fragments of veneer.

Surfaces in good condition but with a heavy accumulation of dust can be cleaned very carefully with a vacuum cleaner. Use the lowest suction available and the round brush attachment. Don’t let the metal or hard plastic parts of the vacuum bump into the surfaces; they can scratch the finish or wood. Much damage, in fact, occurs as the feet and bases of pieces are hit with the vacuum cleaner.

Dirt that cannot be simply vacuumed off may be removed with cleaners mixed in a dilute solution, but only if the finish is in good solid
condition. First, determine which solvent removes the dirt without removing the finish. Those to be tested include mineral spirits (white spirit), paint thinner, and naphtha. Second, test a small spot in an obscure area with the solution on a cotton swab. All areas that appear to be a different coating or material must be tested separately. Only if the solution does not damage the test area should it be used to clean the rest of the piece.

For finished wood, dampen a cotton cloth with the solvent or cleaning solution, and gently rub over a small area at a time. Avoid using too much liquid, as they can cause damage. Then, wipe the cleaned surface with a clean dampened cloth to remove any cleanser residues, followed by a dry soft cloth.

Following simple cleaning, further protection and aesthetic enhancement can be obtained through the application of a stable, hard furniture polish, such as a hard paste wax. The hard wax surface can be dusted more easily because it will be more smooth, and the dust will not be imbedded in it as it would in an unwaxed surface. Waxing need only occur infrequently because the wax itself is not readily removed and it does not degrade chemically. Waxing too often can result in a built-up, clouded surface.

This simple approach avoids the problems created by popular methods of “furniture polishing” – such as sprays and oily polishes – that
may result in cumulative damage to furniture. Many polishes and residues continue to be a vexing problem for furniture conservators, as they can build up over time and with numerous applications, trapping and adhering airborne dirt onto the surface.

For a more in-depth discussion of furniture polishes, refer to the appendix at the end of this text.

Cleaning Upholstery

Dusting upholstery can be accomplished by a vacuum cleaner. Place a soft screen on the surface to prevent any snagging or abrasion from the vacuum tip, and using a brush attachment, carefully vacuum the surface.

Stains and other damage to upholstery should be referred to an upholstery or textile conservator for further treatment.

Metal Hardware

One never-ending concern of furniture caretakers is for the hardware, including handles, brackets, hinges and escutcheons attached, usually with nails, to the outer surface of a piece. The metal in hardware might be brass, silver, gold-plated bronze, depending upon the style, date and country of origin. Contemporary hardware attachments sometimes have a clear lacquer finish that gives them a shiny appearance. Antique hardware is also sometimes coated by restorers and conservators to eliminate the need for constant polishing. There is currently a lot of debate in the conservation field as to whether metal hardware should be lacquered or polished. Neither
is an option is there is evidence of an original varnish or if abrasive polishing would remove some other original surface treatment.

Furniture hardware may become dirty and tarnished with use and exposure to the atmosphere. In such cases, polishing it can be justified. However, even this step is sometimes a poorly informed one. One common example of the damage is created by polishing hardware supposed to be brass, when it is really gilded bronze that is simply dirty. Polishing removes the gold, damaging the surface of a beautiful sculptural element.

If you choose to polish, remove the hardware from the piece, noting the exact location of each screw and nut. Polishing the hardware while on the piece damages the surrounding finish and also allows polishes to run beneath the hardware that can further damage both the metal hardware and the finish.

Clean hardware carefully with a 50/50 mix of acetone and alcohol to remove any dirt and oil residue, scrubbing the piece with a soft bristle brush. After drying, the surface can be polished with a fine, lint-free cloth of felt block charged with a very fine abrasive, such as calcium carbonate or jeweler’s micro polish, in an alcohol or mineral spirits slurry. Commercial polishes can contribute to the deterioration of the hardware, as they frequently contain harsh cleaners that corrode the metal.

If the hardware cannot be removed safely from the furniture it can be polished and coated on the object provided the following precautions are scrupulously followed. First, the surface of the wood and varnish must be completely protected. Acetate sheets, such as those found in office supply stores, can be notched and slid under the hardware from both sides to form an overlapping barrier. Without this precaution, attempts to polish the hardware will likely end in disaster.

Since this hardware cannot be doused with the acetone and alcohol mixture, cleaning must be done by dipping swabs in the solution, then rubbing the metal surface with the swab. Polishing must also be done more carefully, perhaps on a smaller scale.

After polishing, remove all residues. The surface of the hardware that has been removed from the furniture can be easily coated with a transparent resin before the hardware is replaced on the piece. Particular care must be used in applying any coating when the hardware cannot be removed, to make sure that no protective varnish for the hardware gets on the furniture piece itself.

There are several factors to weigh when deciding to use polishes and waxes on furniture and other wooden objects. One critical factor is that the ingredients in commercial polishes and cleaning products are rarely disclosed. Moreover, these ingredients can be, and frequently are, changed without warning or notification. These ingredients may be harmless or harmful to the furniture (and to you) and you have no way of knowing in advance.

Polishing products are available in three forms: aerosol (spray); liquid; and semisolid. Here is a quick look at their benefits and drawbacks.

Aerosols (Spray Polishes)

Aerosols are convenient. However, they have been among the worst offenders in introducing silicone oils and other contaminants onto
furniture. In addition, they may contain solvents that attack varnishes and lacquers. While some of the “dusting” aerosols appear to be benign when applied to a cloth and not the piece of furniture, the result is similar to using a damp, clean dust cloth.

Liquids

Like aerosols, liquid polishes are easy to use. There are two primary forms of commercial liquid products for “furniture care”: emulsion
cleaner or polishes and “oil type” polishes. Emulsion polishes are waxes, oils, detergents, organic solvents, and other materials suspended in water for ease of application. These products can be extremely powerful cleaners that leave a desirable sheen on the surface. However, the visual effect usually diminishes as the liquid dries. Moreover, like aerosols, emulsion polishes can introduce contaminants onto the furniture, but because they are liquids they place much more volume than sprays on the furniture surface.

Oil polishes are even more troublesome. Much like emulsion polishes, oil polishes can be a complex blend of ingredients including oils, waxes, perfumes, colorants, “cleaners,” and organic solvents. They can render extremely pleasing surfaces and are used frequently as final finishes by themselves. However, oils used as polishes or cleaners can be very damaging.

Non-drying oils (paraffin, mineral, and “lemon oil,” which is usually mineral oil with colorants and perfumes added) tend to be more
benign than drying oils, but even so some oil remains as a liquid on (or in) the object. Dust and other airborne contaminants readily stick to wet surfaces, especially oils. But non-drying oils don’t undergo chemical reactions or directly damage the furniture.

Drying oils, on the other hand, such as linseed, tung, or walnut oil, are a different matter altogether. These materials solidify, or “dry”
through a chemical reaction with the air called oxidation. Over time this reaction makes them increasingly difficult to remove. Their permanence is fine if the oil is employed as the finish, but not good if it is used as a maintenance polish. By itself, having a polish that is difficult to remove would be an irritating but not an insurmountable problem. Unfortunately, as drying oils age they tend to yellow and in the presence of acids they are chromogenic (become Colored), turning a dark, muddy brown or opaque black.

Traditionally, cleaning and polishing concoctions comprised of linseed oil, turpentine, beeswax, and vinegar (acetic acid) were widely used even in the museum field until recently. They turned out to be a disaster waiting to happen. The results of their use are readily apparent to even the casual observer: a thick incrustation of chocolate-colored goo that is neither hard enough to be durable, nor soft enough to wipe off easily. The furniture is left with an unsightly coating that is very difficult to remove without damaging the underlying surface.

Semisolids

By virtually any measure semisolid polishes are the least damaging to wooden objects. Frequently called “paste waxes,” these products 
are actually a very concentrated solution of waxes. Provided the ingredients do not include undesirable contaminants like silicone or high concentrations of damaging organic solvents such as alcohol, xylene, or toluene, paste waxes are an excellent polish for the surfaces of most wooden objects.

Because waxes are exceedingly stable and don’t cause many of the problems inherent in the previously mentioned polishes, they are the material of choice for furniture conservators and other caretakers of furniture and wooden objects. But paste waxes have their faults too: unfortunately, they require the most active contact with the surface of the furniture, and also need the most physical labor for proper application.

Buffing out a wax polish can be very hard work, and in general, the better quality the wax, the harder the buffing that is needed. However, the results and benefits to the furniture are worth the extra effort.

Fortunately, as the most durable and stable polishing material, paste wax needs to be applied much less often than aerosols or liquids. Ideally, wax polishing should be conducted no more than twice a year for areas of extremely heavy wear (desktops, chair arms, etc.) and once every three or four years for table and chair legs, cabinets, and similar areas.

If a surface can no longer be buffed to the sheen appropriate for a waxed surface, it is likely that the wax has worn off. In that case, apply another light coat of wax to the affected area in accordance with the product instructions. Wax that is applied too frequently or improperly can build-up and cause an unsightly surface. When the wax is used correctly, however, the solvent content of the new wax will “clean off” any previous wax remaining on the surface and will simply integrate the old into the new.

To determine what type of paint is on your furniture, brush some stripper on an inconspicuous spot and see what happens. If it is oil
based, the paint will wrinkle and bubble. If it just softens up into a slimy goo, it is latex or acrylic. Oil based paint is the easiest to
remove.

When shopping for a mattress wear shoes you can get in and out of easily. Test the mattress by laying full-length out on the bed. Try it out like you’re going to use it, and spend some time on it to see how it really feels. If you feel silly, just think how silly you’re going to feel when you don’t sleep comfortably after spending all that money!

• Note the gauge of the wire as well as the coil count. The smaller the #, the heavier the wire is.
• Always buy box springs at the same time. They are made to be a set.
• Use a heavy-duty bed frame with good center support.
• Stick with a name brand.
• Don’t assume that a higher price means a better mattress.
• Stay away from department stores – they’re always higher and sometimes the name-brand companies make mattresses to fit the
  store’s specifications. You might not be getting the mattress you think you are. Look for a mattress warehouse or factory.
• Remember that all “pillow top” mattresses will get body impressions (except latex toppers.)
• Make sure your mattress has a non pro rata warranty of 10 years.
• Shop around, compare delivery prices, and find out if the company will remove your old mattress for you.
• Buy a mattress with a minimum of 312 coils (fine for children), with 540 being the absolute best. Full-size should have at least
  300, queen-size at least 375 and king-size at least 450.
• Check factory specifications closely.
• For the bed to be right, it should yield enough for you to sink slightly, but not too much, into the bed. LIE DOWN on the mattress, preferably with your sleeping partner, before you buy. You’re not going to be bouncing up and down on the edge of the mattress with you get home!
• For a dry bed, choose a mattress with comfort layers made of latex and insulating pat made of coconut fiber. Stay away from
  wool because wool can grow mold when damp that could trigger asthma problems.
• A mattress should be an innerspring at least nine inches thick. Don’t buy budget when you’re buying a mattress. A good mattress
  will last you 10 to 15 years and will end up costing only pennies a night even at the high-end prices. Shop smart, but don’t scrimp.

Mattress Terms

Foundation – absorbs the shock of daily wear and provides support and durability.

Core – provides support for the body and can be spring, air, foam or water.

Upholstery – Adds comfort and cushioning.

Coil Count – the number of coils in the mattress. High coil count gives better contouring while lower coil count if firmer.

Contour – how the mattress coils conform to the body for comfort.

Box Spring – supports and cushions the mattress.

Innerspring – the inner support of the mattress composed of hundreds of wire coils held together by wire or cloth.

Wire Gauge – thickness of the wire coils. The thicker the wire, the less flexible the coils.

Comfort Level – can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer with Plush being soft and fluffy, Firm being standard cushioning and Pillowtop being a mattress with extra layers of cushioning.

Non Prorated Warranty – a manufacturer’s warranty against defects.

Prorated Warranty – offers less coverage based on the number of years in the warranty.

It used to be that only the upper crust could afford to own real leather furniture; the rest of us had to make do with synthetic substitutes. But in recent years, prices have started to come down as leather has become more popular. Manufacturers are offering a greater choice in styles, making it possible to find leather to suit almost every taste and budget. Before you invest in this practical, versatile furniture, saddle up with some savvy buying tips.

Glass tops can protect your wooden tables, but don’t let moisture get trapped between glass and wood. Create an airspace by elevating the glass top on clear butyl rubber bumpers available at most glass shops and let your wooden table tops breathe.

Wood screws go in a lot easier when you scrape the threads across some candle or beeswax or a bar of soap first.

If some melted wax gets on your table top, hopefully it hasn’t hurt the finish. Since you just can’t wipe it off with a damp cloth, you have to scrape it off. Yes it sounds scary, but it isn’t really. The scraping tool of choice would be an ordinary credit card. You shouldn’t try to scrape it all off at once, but by taking it off in thin layers, it will eventually come off. Since the card is softer than the finish, (We Hope), is doesn’t scratch the surface. Once you get as much off as you can, you can then remove the remaining wax with a soft cloth dipped in lemon oil.

Some colored candles can stain a finish. If this happens, it is best to try some rubbing techniques.

If your table has a satin or dull sheen, grab a pad of 0000 Steel wool and some lemon oil or wool lube. Put some on the pad and rub the spot moving in the direction of the grain. Once the spot is gone, you may need to rub the rest of the table top so the sheen is even. Make sure you go with the grain in long even strokes from one end to the other. To finish the task, simply wipe off the remaining oil and apply your favorite polish.

If you have a glossy sheen, You may try using a little bit of white tooth paste on a dry cotton towel. If this leaves a glossier spot than the rest of the table, then you will need to get some rubbing compounds and polishes like you would use on a car’s finish. If a mirror finish is not what you want, you can always adjust it down with the 0000 steel wool. Don’t forget to use your favorite polish when your done.

The only way to pull grease and oil out of wood is with a poultice. Go to your swimming pool place and get a bag of diatomite or commonly known as diatomaceous earth. Grab a couple of gallons of acetone also from hardware or paint store. Mix the two together to form a paste you can spread over the top. You will need about a 1/2″ layer of it.

As the acetone dries, the oil gets pulled into the DE .Once it is dry, scrape it off into the trash and repeat if necessary. Most likely it will take at least three applications. You might try putting a heat source directly under the slab at the same time which will drive more oil to the surface.

You will need to do this process outdoors because of the intensely flammable and highly smelly fumes.

To determine what type of finish you are dealing with, You will need to do a solvent test. Put some acetone or fingernail polish remover on a finger and rub it in an inconspicuous spot to see if the finish starts to soften. If it does, you are dealing with nitrocellulose lacquer which is predominantly used in the furniture industry. If it doesn’t soften, try some denatured alcohol the same way. If it softens with alcohol, you have a shellac finish. If neither one seems to soften the finish, you are either dealing with varnish, polyurethane, catalyzed lacquer, conversion varnish or polyester which are all non-reactive finishes that can’t be re-dissolved by their original solvent.

If the top is removed, it will be easier to do the clamping during the glue job. Use some liquid hide glue made by the Franklin company since it will bond well with the old hide glue. Try to work some of the glue underneath the loose stuff keeping in mind the there are most likely two layers of veneer. The top layer and the substrate layer which has the wood grain running in the opposite direction than the top layer. You may have to feed glue between all the layers. A long thin bladed spatula is what I use.

Once you have sufficient glue to all recesses, you need to squeeze out all of the excess glue with a veneer hammer, J-roller, or wall paper roller. Keep a damp rag handy to catch the drips.

To clamp it, you will need a flat block of wood that is at least the same size as the loose portion, some C type clamps, and some wax paper to put under the clamp block to keep it from sticking once the glue dries. If you are gluing a decent size area, you will want to start the clamping from the inside working your way to the outside. This will help squeeze out more extra glue that isn’t needed, so keep you rag handy again. What you don’t want is a pocket of extra dried glue under the surface resembling a bubble on the finished product. If you are gluing in a loose piece or patch, I have found it helpful to use a piece of thick clear Lexan as the glue block. This allows me to see through it to make sure the piece hasn’t slid on me while clamping. The hide glue doesn’t stick to the Lexan, so no wax paper is needed.

After drying overnight, you can remove the clamps and block. If the block is stuck, tap the side of it with a hammer like you are spinning it. Lifting it off could take the veneer with it. If you have a finished surface with glue residue on it, a warm wet rag will dissolve the hide glue.

When buying upholstered chairs, love seats, and sofas, there are a few things to consider.

There are two types of frames, the cheaper plywood frame and the better hardwood frame. The cheaper frame is more prone to losing a spring if someone sits down to hard or you have kids that like to jump. If that happens, fixing it could cost you. The hardwood frame won’t do you any good unless it is put together with dowel joints.

Stay away from upholstered recliners that have the foot rest that pops out. I have yet to see one that is worth buying. Even worse is the sofa with the recliner built into it.

As for the fabrics, the cottons won’t last near as long as the synthetics. A good heavy tapestry will wear like iron.

Make sure you ask a lot of questions. What is the warranty? Do they deliver? Can it be upgraded with a better fabric or legs? Make sure you shop around.

This can be a tricky one even for a professional. The only thing you can try is some 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper and a hard flat sanding block. Make sure you hold the block level while sanding the glue down flush. You will get into the surrounding finish, so try to keep it to a minimum. If the glue is pretty thick, you might mask around the spot to protect the area around it.

Once you get it sanded level, you will need to finish sanding the spot with 1200 grit paper.

To get the shine back on a high gloss finish, it will take some rubbing compounds and polishes on a cotton rag and some
elbow grease. Apply your favorite polish to finish it up.

If your table has a satin or dull sheen, grab a pad of 0000 Steel wool and some lemon oil or wool lube. Put some on the pad and rub the spot moving in the direction of the grain. Once the spot is gone, you may need to rub the rest of the table top so the sheen is even. Make sure you go with the grain in long even strokes from one end to the other. To finish the task, simply wipe off the remaining oil and apply your favorite polish.

Your best defense when buying antiques as an investment is simply to be well informed. Read books from the library, ask questions of dealers, know what you are shopping for and what it should be worth. Most dealers specialize and so should you, no one knows everything about everything. If you are buying the piece because you like it and not as an investment, the only criteria is how much you like it and how much you can afford.

When it comes to doing repairs, it is very important to use the proper glue for the job. When it comes to re-gluing joints on furniture made prior to 1955, my favorite is Franklin brand liquid hide glue. It has very good tack and strength plus has a longer working time which comes in handy for re-gluing chairs.

Furniture made after 1955 to present day is constructed with PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate). It is the pale yellow glue for woodworking or carpentry. If your project requires a long open time, this is not the glue of choice. You are better off with the hide glue.

For broken components that are hard to clamp and won’t ever need to come back apart, I would recommend a five to thirty-minute epoxy. I don’t recommend using this glue for the joints unless you have a lot of play in them. It is the best gap filling glue out there.

For fixing hairline cracks that you can’t get conventional glues into, You can use a thin or thick cyanoacrylate commonly known as super glue. It works even better if you use an accelerator to speed up the hardening process. You might want to shop at a model airplane store to find it. I don’t recommend this glue in areas that need to be structurally significant. Remember to keep a bottle of fingernail polish remover on hand just in case you glue your fingers together or to the furniture.